Before anything else: safety
Do not go on a wet, icy or wind-damaged roof, and do not let anyone without fall protection do it either. Look from the ground with binoculars and from inside the attic with a flashlight. If there is water coming through a ceiling, put a bucket under it and, if the ceiling is bulging, poke a small hole at the low point to drain it before the whole panel comes down. Turn off power to any room where water is near fixtures.
Hour 0–24: document
Insurers, and FEMA in a declared disaster, expect a record of the damage as it was, before anything was moved, covered or repaired.
- Timestamped photos and video of every damaged area: the roof from the ground, the attic, the ceilings, the walls, the yard (shingles, shakes, flashing on the lawn)
- Wide shots for context, close shots for detail
- A written list of what you see, with times
- Save the weather: a screenshot of the storm's wind report for your area is useful later
Keep the debris. The adjuster may want to see the torn shakes.
Hour 24–48: temporary cover
Your policy almost certainly requires you to take reasonable steps to prevent further damage, and it will usually reimburse the cost. Most guidance puts the window before wet materials begin growing mold at about 24–48 hours.
- A roofer's emergency patch or a properly secured tarp, run over the ridge and battened, not weighed down with bricks
- Keep every receipt, and photograph the cover once it is on
- In a federally declared disaster, FEMA distributes free self-help tarps and the Army Corps of Engineers' Operation Blue Roof installs reinforced temporary sheeting rated for about 30 days (1-888-ROOF-BLU, 766-3258)
Then: the insurer, then the roofer
Call the insurer first so the claim is open and the adjuster is scheduled. Then get a licensed local roofer to write the permanent scope with photos. Do not let a roofer "handle the claim" for you before you have spoken to your insurer, and do not sign an assignment of benefits.
What repairs cost
- Typical storm repair: $350–1,500, about $800 on average (national 2025–26)
- Flashing repair $200–600; flashing replacement $500–1,500
- Small hole or minor leak: $100–400
- If the roof is old (architectural asphalt past 20 years, cedar past 30) or already has two layers, the adjuster may scope a replacement rather than a repair. 2026 Long Island replacement ranges: asphalt $530–795 per square, cedar $900–1,620, standing seam $1,050–1,785, synthetic slate $1,155–1,890; natural slate $2,000–3,500 nationally.
Your deductible, in New York
Most Long Island policies carry two deductibles:
- The ordinary deductible, a flat dollar amount
- A hurricane (windstorm) deductible of 1–5% of the dwelling coverage, most commonly 2–5%, shown as a dollar figure on your declarations page. Example: $150,000 of dwelling coverage × 5% = $7,500. On a Hamptons house insured for much more, the number is proportionally larger.
Since February 2, 2026, New York uses a single statewide rule:
- The hurricane deductible applies only to a storm with sustained winds of 74 mph or more (one-minute average)
- It applies only to losses in the window from 12 hours before landfall to 12 hours after the last hurricane warning is cancelled
- Only the higher of the two deductibles applies to a given loss, never both
- Insurers may now request hurricane deductibles anywhere in the state, not just the historically listed downstate counties (New York City, Nassau, Suffolk, Westchester)
What that means on the South Fork: nor'easters, ice storms, thunderstorms and the tropical storm that arrives at 60 mph are ordinary-deductible claims. The named hurricane that makes landfall at 74+ mph is the percentage-deductible claim, and a $5,000–15,000 roof repair may fall entirely inside it, which is worth knowing before you file.
Roof age and renewals
There is no New York statute requiring roof-age disclosure, but as an industry pattern many carriers scrutinize roofs past 15–20 years, and some decline to renew or require an inspection or replacement. A documented inspection before storm season (about $250 on average; many Long Island roofers inspect free when quoting work) is the cheap move.
Ice storms and ice dams
Winter damage on the South Fork is mostly ice dams: heat escaping into the attic melts snow that refreezes at the cold eave and backs water up under the first courses. Short term: pull snow off the lower roof with a roof rake from the ground; never chip at ice on the roof. Long term, in order: attic insulation and ventilation, ice-and-water shield at the eaves ($150–400 added on a re-roof for eaves and valleys; $1,500–3,000 for full coverage), clear gutters, and heat cable only as a last resort. Gutters do not cause ice dams, but clogged ones make them worse.
Where the damage is, by town
- Montauk, Amagansett, Sagaponack and the ocean lanes: wind damage at ridges, rakes and flashing; nor'easters arrive over open water from the northeast, so north- and east-facing slopes take the worst
- Sag Harbor and the village centers: wind-driven rain at chimneys and flashing on old steep roofs, and falling limbs from the street trees; slate and wood roofs should be triaged by someone who works in those materials
- Springs, Northwest Woods, north-of-the-highway Bridgehampton and Water Mill: limbs and ice dams more than wind
Storm chasers
After every serious storm, out-of-area crews appear on the South Fork with magnetic signs and cash discounts. The rules:
- Any roofer working on a house in Suffolk County must hold a Suffolk County Home Improvement Contractor license and carry liability and workers' compensation insurance. Ask for the license number and a current certificate of insurance, and check them.
- Ask for three local references from the last year.
- Get the scope in writing, with photos, before any money changes hands.
- Never sign an assignment of benefits, a blank contract or a "pre-authorization" on the hood of a truck.
- Permits: in the Town of Southampton a like-for-like repair rarely needs one; in the Town of East Hampton confirm with the Building Department; in the Sag Harbor historic district a visible change of material needs a Certificate of Appropriateness even after a storm.
The permanent repair
Once the cover is on and the claim is open, the permanent fix should be done by a local roofer who will be here next spring. Matching the material matters: asphalt patched into a cedar or slate roof is a leak waiting for next winter and, in the villages, a review-board problem. If the roof is near the end of its life, the storm is the moment to decide about replacement on your own terms rather than the adjuster's.
Sources and method
Compiled 21 August 2026 from the New York Department of Financial Services homeowners-insurance guidance, the 2026 DFS uniform hurricane-deductible regulation (via Chartwell Law's summary), FEMA's fact sheet on tarps and USACE Blue Roofs, Fixr and related 2025–26 repair-cost guides, RoofVista's 2026 Long Island cost guide, the Suffolk County Home Improvement licensing requirement (via secondary sources; the county's own PDF was not retrievable), and the Village of Sag Harbor code. The 24–48 hour drying window is the commonly cited figure across EPA, CDC and FEMA guidance rather than a single primary statute. Reviewed and updated as rules change.